The History of Swimwear: The Bikini, The One Piece, and All Things In-Between

Throughout history, the swimsuit has been highly contested and its evolution was fraught with battles of modesty and acceptability. In the Victorian Era, woman essentially wore dresses to the beach and it was scandalous to show your knees. Fast forward to the 90s and trying to cover even your private parts was considered prudish. In the time in-between, women tried many different cuts, fabrics, and colors to push the boundaries of modesty in order to express their femininity. More than any garment worn in public, a woman’s swimsuit puts the woman’s body one display. Depending on how it is interpreting, a woman could use her swimwear to show her feminine power but swimwear could also be used as a patriarchal tool to define how woman should look. I personally chose to view the swimsuit as an empowerment tool to push societal boundaries of modesty and express herself in the way she pleases.Now in 2016, we have the opportunity to wear any kind of swimsuit: one pieces, bikinis, monokini, tankinis, and any other cut. By looking at the history of swimwear, we can see the struggles woman who have come before us went through for the right to bear their skin and have fun on their own terms. 

Late 1940s/1950s:

The Birth of The Bikini

Although it took over two decades for the bikini to reach its full popularity, it was officially created in 1946 by Louis Réard. The bikini was named after the atomic bomb testing site of Bikini Atoll, and Réard believe the bikini would get the same explosive results! During the 50s, the bikini was still seen as a piece that was only worn by adult movie stars or famous actresses. Instead, a one structured one piece suit was a more common choice for the everyday woman. The 50s was all about the hourglass shape(think Marilyn Monroe and Betty Paige) so the one pieces would have a corset inspired fit to get that nipped in waist.

1960s:

The Popularization of the Bikini and the Beginning of the Sexual Revolution

By the time the 60s were ushered in, the stigma attached to bikinis as too sexual or reveling dissolved. Bikini’s became a stylish and desirable piece for every woman’s wardrobe. The bikini worn in the 60s was different from the modern bikini in that it was not as reveling; the bottoms always covered a woman’s rear and had a high waist that fell just below the belly button. Beyond the bare bodied trend, women loved to experiment with pattern and fabrics. It was hard to find a bikini without a fun print, a psychedelic inspired design, cutouts or plastic inserts. The 60s was the beginning of the sexual revolution; women wanted to bear it all and for once, no one was complaining. Modesty was out and liberating the skin was in.

**Special Mention**

Rudi Gernreich’s Monokini

In line with the sexual exploration of the 60s woman, Designer Rudi Gernreich unveiled his bare breasted ‘Monokini’. Yes, you heard me right: a suit that let your boobs hang free(#freethenipple). This was Gernreich’s stand against a sexual repressive society but the suit was outlawed on most public beaches and was renounced by the Vatican.

1970s:

Experimentation and Psychadelic Mindset

The sexual revolution started in the 60s was now in full swing. Women felt they had the right and freedom to dress their bodies in whatever way made them happy and feel sexy. Due to this, swimsuit cuts and colors varied more widely than ever before. Designers went crazy with bra-inspired bikinis, fun printed cover-ups, and a new sexy take on the classic one piece swimsuit. One of the most notable events in swimwear during the 70s was the crowning of the a new sexy swimwear queen. Actress Farrah Fawcett became the face of swimwear in her iconic sexy red one piece. There weren’t any major transformations of the swimsuit in this decade but it was a decade of exploration and modification.

1980s:

The End of Modesty and The Beginning of the Less is More

With every decade that passes, old ideas of modesty and limits of the cuts of swimwear were quickly eroding. In the 80s, any modesty that had once existed in swim fashion was now gone. The 80s was obsessed with bright colored, crazy patterned, and scandalous pieces to grab all the attention. High cut one pieces were still popular, thong bikini bottoms gave a sexy look and avoided tan lines, and bikini tops a few sizes too small were all acceptable on the beach.

1990s:

The 80s Hyper Sexual Sister and The Pretzel Bikini

In many ways, the 90s was the more scandalous and sexually expressive sister of the 80s. The 90s still was a big fan of garish colors and prints but cut the amount of fabric covering the body in half. Swimwear was now had to serve many purposes for women: sun tanning, playing, swimming, and displaying. Going to the beach was an opportunity to show of the fit tanned ideal body popular at the time, so any excess fabric was doing a disservice to the hard work women put in the upkeep that look. The ideal suit for this was was the bikini/one piece hybrid known as the pretzel. It was a twist of spandex and lycra that barely covered a woman’s private parts, which showed off as much skin as possible.

 

What’s your favorite decade of fashion? What swimsuit cut do you like best? Let me know your thoughts!

Look forward to future blog posts that will dive deeper into each decade of fashion and do spotlight posts of specific vintage trends I post something new every Tuesday! Let me know if you have any questions or if there is any topic you want to hear more about!

Preview: In honor of the summer FINALLY arriving, next week I will exploring the History of Beach Accessories: The Headscarf, Oversized Sun Hats, and Bug-Eyed Sunglasses

1970s: Fighting ‘The Man’, Bell Bottom Pants, and the Maxi Dress

Backdrop:

Social Upheaval and The Vietnam War

By the beginning of the 70s, the social-upheaval minded teenagers of the 60s were coming into their young adulthood and pushed even more strongly for reform. The US had been involved in the Vietnam war since the mid 60s and as the 70s began, the US population wanted out. President Richard Nixon was making attempts to reduce the US presence in Vietnam by recalling many troops but with the election fast approaching in 72, the rowdy youth demanded more. Although Nixon won reelection, the youth’s distaste for the military-minded government only grew when the watergate scandal was publicized. After Nixon was impeached/resigned, the government saw a quick change in 74 when a Congress dominated by Democrats was elected and  immediate restrictions on funding and military activities was passed(a total cutoff of funding was accomplished by 76). These accomplishments gave a sense of achievement to the youth as they were able to empower themselves and demand change. This individualist mindset was expressed in fashion as women and men alike dressed not in a way that was fashionable but rather as they pleased.

Designer/Celebrity Influences:

Stevie Nicks and Farrah Fawcett

 

Stevie Nicks is best known as lead singer and songwriter of the band Fleetwood Mac. Due to the popularity of the bad, ladies around the world wanted to mimic Nicks’ signature style. Nicks had a talent for mixing flowy bohemian shapes with the leather/lace/velvet hippie details. Her look and her music exemplified the attitude of the decade.

Most of the 70s was dominated by the free-flowing androgynous hippie, but there was also a subculture in the late 70s that applauded sex appeal. Actress Farrah Fawcett is best known for the role as Jill Monroe in the TV series Charlie’s Angels as well as for red swimsuit photo that covered the bedroom walls of every teenager. Fawcett exemplified a sexy athletic this look with her blond feathered hair, shimmering white smile, and California tan, which made her the envy of all women and the dream girl of all men. She became so popular that her feathered hair was demanded by every woman in the later part of the decade and became lovingly known as ‘The Farrah'(much like Jennifer Anistons signature hairstyle on the 90s tv show ‘Friends’ became known as ‘The Jennifer’). The sexy and athletic look saw moderate attention in the 70s but heavily influenced early 80s fashion.

 

Defining Silhouettes:

The Maxi Dress and Bell Bottom Pants

The influence of the Woodstock festival which preached peace and music in the late 60s influenced the demands of the youth in the early 70s. Just as the 60s was obsessed with the short mini skirt, the youth of the 70s loved the free-fitting bohemian silhouettes. Designers of all kinds took this influence to create non-restrictive bohemian outfits such as flowy tent dresses and wide legged pants. Most notable was the popularization of the maxi dress. These full length dresses came in all fabrics and colors. Most popular was large floral prints and ethnic prints that spoke to the inner hippie of the generation.

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Vintage 1970s Sylvia Ann Sky Blue Floral Maxi Prom Dress at Aphrodite’s Vintage

Just as the maxi dress gave an ease of movement and a free-flowing feelings, the bell-bottom pants mimicked this look with a wide pants leg that flowed as you moved. These type of pants came in all different colors and fabric(denim, lace, leather, etc.) so there is a a pair of pants that will agree with anyone’s look!

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1970s Lace Bell Bottom Pants at ShopExile

Unique Features:

 Denim Jeans and Long Straight Hair

For the first time, pants were an accepted piece of clothing for any occasion for women. Women wore pants to work, to party, and even to get married! With this mindset, denim jeans were massed produced and consumed by people of all ages. Jeans were flared, bell bottom, hip huggers, high waist, wide legged, embellished – anything you could think of was one a pair of jeans! It was even common to see denim used in skirts, suits, vests, jackets, and accessories.

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Vintage 1970s High Waisted Bellbottom Jeans at brownbagvintage

In previous decades, hair was not seen as a necessary part of fashion but rather was pinned back to accommodate a hat. As hats lost popularity in the mid 60s, women and men started to experiment with hair. The 60s tried Beehive hair to mimic a hat while the 70s rejected hats all together in favor of long simple hair. The hippie style called for long hair on both men and women but women usually wore it longer than the men. There was really no styling necessary. Most hippies wore their hair straight and parted down the center.

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Must have accessories:

Platform Shoes, Floppy Hats, and Leather Purses

 With flowy skirts and bell-bottom pants being the must have garments of the decade, women wanted comfortable but tall heels to make their legs look even longer. Platforms were first introduced in 1971 and became an essential footwear style worn by most women and the more fashionable men. Platform shoes became all the rage as they were easier to walk in than stilletos but gave a touch of height to any outfit.

When one things of the 70s boho chick, the look isn’t complete without a wide brimmed sunhat and oversized bug glasses. The sunhat complimented the free-form clothing of the decade and came in many colors and materials(suede was one of the favorites of the 70s).

The 70s loved earth tones. Tans, browns, black, and dull greens were the go to for any fashionable woman. To compliment this, accessories made of natural leather and suede were commonly used.

Honorable Mentions:

Diane Von Furstenburg’s Wrap Dress and Jumpsuits

Diane von Furstenberg is currently a household name that calls up images of comfortable, flattering elegance. When Furstenberg arrived on the fashion scene in 1974 with a collection of jersey wrap dresses, women looking for a comfortable but more figure pronouncing dress had finally found their savior. The idea was an instant sell-out due to its universal flattering silhouette and its ability to make one feel classy and ready for every occasion. This dress is still produced by DVF and is a must have for any retro inspired or modern woman.
In a decade of free flowy dresses and pants, the jumpsuit didn’t gain full popularity until the end of the decade. After the end of the Vietnam war and the social upstarts of the early decade had ended, the youth wanted to party. And party they did. Disco fever of the late 70s and early 80s took hold of the country and produced dramatic bold colored pieces, such as lime green jumpsuits, that was perfect for dancing the Hustle on the dance floor.

What’s your favorite decade of fashion? Should fashion be more about how clothes look on you or how they feel on you? Let me know your thoughts!

Look forward to future blog posts that will dive deeper into each decade of fashion. I post something new every Tuesday! Let me know if you have any questions or if there is any topic you want to hear more about!

Preview: Next week we dive into the 1980s(The Power Suit, Aerobic Nation, and Materialist Fashion)

1960s: Rebellious Teenagers, Twiggy, and The Kitten Heel

Backdrop:

Teenager Takeover, Social Reform, and Landing on the Moon

The beginning of the 60s was glowing with promise of social reform, innovation, and a new golden age. John F. Kennedy was elected president, many sit-ins and protests were launched to right the social wrongs of the past, and Neil Armstrong first stepped on the moon. The youth stretched their newly discovered muscles in society by rallying behind social change(i.e. War on Poverty) and using fashion as a tool to push forward their cause. The youth culture had taken over fashion from their parents by rebelling with loose fitting clothing and scandalous hem lengths.

Designer/Celebrity Influences:

Jackie Kennedy and Mary Quant/Twiggy

When JFK is brought up, it is the natural to think of the ever fashionable and  immortalized first lady, Jackie Kennedy Onassis. As the third youngest first lady in US history (she was 31 at the beginning of her husbands presidency) she quickly became a relatable icon for the youth and young adults of the decade. She portrayed an unquestionable elegance that the populace looked to and emulated by wearings anything jackie inspired. Her signature look was reminiscent of Coco Chanel’s”The Chanel Suit”(click on the link for a blurb in my previous 1950s fashion post). Check out the Defining Silhouettes section for more information on this look.

Fast forward a few years to the middle of the 60s and you see a very different look developing. Very few would debate that Mary Quant was the most influential designer of the 60s and her model Twiggy was the ideal that women of the decade strived towards. The reason she became so successful in the industry was that she was the women she sold to: she was a non-conformist, she did not want to be an adult, and  didn’t want to wear ‘adult’ clothing. Due to this, she created pieces with youthful colors and silhouettes that flattered younger women and gave them the freedom of movement. She was very in sync with consumers of the time as she said “Fashion, as we know it, is over; people wear now exactly what they feel like wearing.” and what people felt like wearing was mini skirts(50s well-to-do ladies gasp!) and psychedelic prints.

Defining Silhouettes:

A Line Dresses, Boxy Jackets, and The Mini Skirt/Dress

The 50s was dominated by fitted silhouettes such as the circle skirt and fitted wiggle dresses. As the 60s began, the youth rebelled against these fashion standards by wearing loose fitting clothing such as tunic and A Line dresses(side note: both fashion standards were conceived by the same designer, Christian Dior, but the A-line fashion only truly caught on after his death in 1957). A Line dresses are unique in that they do not define a waist or cling to the body but rather fall loosely over the body and give a boyish/young girl look(reminiscent of the 20s).

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Vintage 1960s Red and Blue A Line Floral Print Dress at Aphrodite’s Vintage

The boxy jacket and pencil skirt look was very popular in the early 60s due to it being the outfit of choice for style icon and first lady Jackie Kennedy. Her iconic outfit featured a boxy cut blazer over a knee length loose fit pencil skirt and paired with neutral matching accessories. This look was a precursor to future 60s looks that shied away from the constrictive, print heavy, and feminine fashion of the 50s in favor of a more comfortable and less sexual look that resonated with women entering the workforce.

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Vintage 60’s Red Silk Mod Suit . Boxy Jackie O Jacket at BeeBeautifulVintage

The creation of the miniskirt and who should be credited with it has been debated but the woman who truly popularized fashions most daring hemline was Mary Quant. As her career progressed in the 60s, her customer kept asking for shorter and shorter hemlines until the mini skirt was born. Quant claimed she was inspired by her favorite car, the Mini, when crafting the mini skirt.  The mini skirt was commonly paired with high necklines in dresses and tops to bring full attention to the leg, and later in the 60s bright neon tights were paired with it for an even stronger effect.

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Vintage 1960s Green and Pink Mini Dress at Aphrodite’s Vintage

Unique Features:

Bright Pastel Colors and Doll Like Features

During the 50s, deep reds and jewel tone colors were to go to for fashion designers. As the 60s began, the youth forced their way into fashion and demanded pieces that were different from what their parents wore. This bore the fruits of pastel pieces and babydoll makeup to create an image of a slim whimsical girl. Twiggy was the leader of this look as girls strived to recreate her look with lots of eyeliner and loose fitting dresses.

Must Have Accessories:

The Pillbox Hat, The Kitten Heel, and Long Lashes/Winged Eyeliner

The Pillbox hat was popularized by first lady Jackie Kennedy early in the decade. It served as a matching accessory to a classic boxy suit that was needed to finish the outfit. These hats generally sat at the top of head and could be embellished with netting or feathers.

Stiletto heels were all the rage in the 50s. As has been mentions 10 times already, the 60s youth were rebels. Due to this, they demanded shorter more comfortable heels to compliment their babydoll look. Due to this, kitten heels were created and popularized and are still worn today to give a touch of height without the pain of stilettos.

Makeup in the 60s was all about creating a girly look. The red lips and bright pink cheeks of the 50s were replaced by minimalist makeup on most of the face and a dramatic eye look to give girls doe-eyes. Winged eyeliner and false eyelashes were must have pieces in any trendy woman’s makeup bag.

Honorable Mentions:

Itsy Bitsy Teenie Weenie Yellow Polka Dot Bikini and The Beehive Hair Style

Teens of the 60s loved to experiment with their swimwear. The song we all know “Itsy Bitsy Teenie Weenie Yellow Polka Dot Bikini” was first sung in the 60s and had teens running wild trying to find it! Bikinis were popularized in the 50s by figures such as Bridget Bardot but in the 60s, designers took swimwear to a whole other revealing level. Designer Rudi Gernreich unveiled his bare breasted ‘Monokini’ which was outlawed on most public beaches. He also was the creator of the thong bathing suit. Beyond the bare bodied trend, women loved to experiment with one pieces with cutouts and plastic inserts to add another texture to their swimwear.

Since the beginning of fashion in the US, hats have always been an important and necessary part of finishing an outfit. Without a hat, a women’s outfit was not complete and she was not ready to go into public. In the mid-60s, women rejected hats in favor of using hair to finish an outfit. The most iconic of these hairstyles was the beehive created by Chicago stylist Margaret Vinci Heldt. She created in because she hated having hat hair(I feel ya) and this style would maintain its shape over the course of a few days. Although it may seem like a crazy look to modern women who want long flowing hair, it was the go to style for the 60s woman on the go so she always looked trendy. Want to create this look? Check out XOJane for a step-by-step on how to create this hairstyle!

What’s your favorite decade of fashion? Should fashion be more about how clothes look on you or how they feel on you? Let me know your thoughts!

Look forward to future blog posts that will dive deeper into each decade of fashion. I post something new every Tuesday! Let me know if you have any questions or if there is any topic you want to hear more about!

Preview: Next week we dive into the 1970s (Fighting ‘The Man’, Bell Bottom Pants, and the Maxi Dress)

1950’s: Consumerism, Blonde Bombshell, and The New Look

Backdrop:

Post-War Boom and Consumerism

 Since I am starting this fashion timeline with the 50s, I feel it is necessary to reference the 40s and how the previous decade influenced fashion of the 50s. During the 40s, the US was in the midst of WWII. Cloth was rationed and any excess was viewed as unpatriotic. Due to this, women wore clothing without much frill(as seen in the picture on the left). The war officially ended in 1945 and but by 1947, we could begin to see the first thoughts of 50s fashion. As the 50s began, men were home and making money for their families and women wanted to wear clothing that countered the minimalist nature of the previous decade, so colorful and full clothing was made.

Designer/Celebrity Influences:

Dior’s New Look and Monroe ‘Blonde Bombshell’

No conversation on 50s fashion can begin without mentioning Dior’s ‘New Look’. Technically, this fashion line was released in 1947 but had a huge influence on 50s fashion. Christian Dior may seem like a household name now but it was this fashion line that launched this fledgling designer into stardom. Dior wanted to contrast the  female figure:“I wanted my dresses to be “constructed’, molded on the curves of the female body whose contours they would stylize. I accentuated the waist, the volume of the hips, I emphasized the bust.”. This idea inspired the coming silhouettes of the 50s which were popularized even further by starlets such as Marilyn Monroe, Audrey Hepburn, and Grace Kelly. Marilyn Monroe took another of Dior’s looks, the Sheath ‘Wiggle’ Dress, and made it the icon of Pinup culture.

Defining Silhouettes:

Circle Skirts and The Sheath ‘Wiggle’ Dress

During the 50s, there were 5 defining silhouettes that each served their own purpose in a woman life. Women had styles for lounging, going out to run errands, maternity wear, evening wear, and work uniforms. The most well known and popularized of these dress styles were the dresses with circle skirts and a sheath shape.

The Circle Skirt came in many different patterns and colors but shared the same basic shape: The bodice was fitted to bring out the bust, gathered at the natural waist, and expanded out into a large poof skirt from the waist. Skirts would be made of up to 5 yards of lightweight fabric to allow them to be worn with a petticoat for extra volume.

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1950’s New Look Lipstick Red Silk Crepe Party Dress at butchwaxvintage

The second of the iconic silhouettes of the decade was essentially the opposite of the circle skirt. The Sheath Dress, or more commonly known today as the Wiggle Dress, has a fitted bodice with a nipped in waist but has a tighter and more lean skirt(similar to a modern pencil skirt). Sex symbols, such as Marilyn Monroe and Betty Paige, commonly wore this style of dress and it later became the icon for the modern Pinup Movement.

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1950s Bullock’s Wilshire Beaded Wiggle Dress at Aphrodite’s Vintage

Unique Features:

Prints Gone Wild and Decorative Buttons

The 50s came up with so many different prints and patterns that is in impossible to see them all. The 50s woman loved florals, polka dots, gingham, plaids, and novelty prints. Novelty prints vary so much that there is something that will please every type of woman. Some dresses have feminine floral prints in pastel pinks and whites, others have quirky graphic novelty prints(which can include lipstick tubes, fish, Egyptian soldiers, and carrots, just to name a few I have seen lately), and a few have famous artist’s work printed on them(think Starry Night). Regardless of what you are interested in or want to express to the world, you can find it in a vintage novelty print!

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Vintage 50’s Colorful Cotton Novelty Print Circle Skirt at sodashopvintage

If adding a fun print to a 50s circle dress wasn’t enough for you, there is a plethora of collar options that give an extra quirk to 50s dresses. Fancy collars including peter pan, wings, detachable, and mandarin were commonly added to dresses to give them a bit more pizazz and personality.

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Fancy collars such as peter pans, wings, mandarin and middy added drama to the neckline.

Must have Accessories:

Gloves, The Stiletto Heel, and Coordinated Jewelry Set

Gloves have been a staple of women’s fashion for decades before the 50s, but only in the 50s did they become so extravagant and colorful. The short black or white gloves of the previous generation were still made but now elbow length bright colored gloves were the finishing touch to any outfit. Going for a walk around town? There were some perfect mid-length mint green gloves to go with your outfit. Staying in and cooking dinner? Simple short white gloves would keep your hands clean and looking fabulous. Going to the opera? Well, time the find the perfect red long elbow length gloves to match your dress!

Stiletto heels. Love them or hate them, you know what they are. That is because of Roger Vivier, who is credited with creating them for the House of Dior in 1954.A stiletto heel makes ones legs appear long, their feet smaller, and alters the body’s posture to accentuate the bust and bottom. It has been claimed that stilettos were worn to reduce the wearer to a slow pace as to let everyone appreciate their well planned out outfit for longer. 🙂 Stilettos became so popular that many airlines and building had to ban them due to the damage they caused to floors. Regardless of how you feel about them, stilettos are a must have for any 50s diva(but if your feet want some relief, try a kitten heel out for a similar but more comfortable look)!

Currently, it is very fashionable to mix colors and metals in your jewelry to obtain a contrasting look. Back in the 50s, this would be unthinkable! Constructing an outfit was all about matching and coordinating colors to obtain a cohesive look. Due to this, Coordinated Jewelry Sets were very popular among fashionable women. Have some pearls sown into your 50s dress? Make sure you match it with a pearl beaded necklace and earring set to finish the look(and match the dress color with your stiletto shoes to finish it off!).

 Honorable Mentions:

Coco Chanel and”The Chanel Suit” and the Bullet Bra

Although not as iconic or striking as a novelty print circle skirt dress, “The Chanel Suit” has an important place in the late 50s and early 60s fashion scene. Coco Chanel designed this line with function and comfort as her first priorities. Her suits and dress-suits were made of comfortable fabric and cut in a way that was flattering but non-constrictive for women. They featured boxy cut jackets, skirts fitted through the hips, and a mid calf length. As reviewed by American Vogue in the 50s, “A dress isn’t right if it is uncomfortable.… A dress must function; place the pockets accurately for use, never a button without a button-hole. A sleeve isn’t right unless the arm moves easily. Elegance in clothes means freedom to move freely” (American Vogue, p. 84). Although this line got limited attention in the frills-obsessed 50s, it was a must have piece as the 60s approached. Jackie O was the most well known figure that used “The Chanel Suit” to develop herself as a style icon to the work focused young adults of the late 50s and early 60s!

The Bullet Bra confuses most modern women. Current bras are all about rounding and raising the breasts, but the bullet bra was about creating an aggressive look. Its strong shape gave the bust an exaggerated look that fit in with exaggerated 50s fashion. Maidenform was the first to produce this type of bra and they called it the Chansonette bra. It was created in a cone shape by its spiral stitching and did not require an underwire or extra padding to achieve the look(which made it super comfortable and popular with women of the time). A bullet bra, although slightly strange to the modern woman, is an important piece to obtaining that classic 50s pinup shape.

What’s your favorite decade of fashion? Should fashion be more about how clothes look on you or how they feel on you? Let me know your thoughts!

Look forward to future blog posts that will dive deeper into each decade of fashion. I post something new every Tuesday! Let me know if you have any questions or if there is any topic you want to hear more about!

Preview: Next week we dive into the 1960s(MOD Hippie Girl, Twiggy, and The Kitten Heel)